Askole is a small remote village located in the impressive Braldu Valley and is the gateway to the Karakoram. It’s reached by way of a rough road (er, well more off-road really) in old jeep-style Toyota Landcruisers, and higher up the route is often blocked by landslide or rock-fall. Initially our journey took us through some remarkably lush and verdant pastures, the result of the fertile flood plains, and drove through many tiny hamlets and villages. These were surprisingly prosperous, despite their remoteness, and there has clearly been much investment in the area, particularly in building schools. The villagers were also by far the friendliest people we’ve met to date, especially the children, and even the women waved and said hello rather than run away or stay hidden (so long as their men-folk were not around). Why, we even got to meet our driver’s family along the way!
On arrival in Askole it was soon evident that our anticipated head-start to the trek was not going to happen. We had intended to begin the trek straight away and get ahead of some of the other expeditions that were also trekking into the Karakoram, the idea being to get the best tent sites at the various camps along the way. Alas nobody had told the porters, and after several hours of argument and confusion we decided to stay put for the night!
No matter. By dawn an air of calm efficiency had descended about the place. The porters quickly sorted their loads and with much relief we were finally off – the expedition had begun at last!! The relief, however, was somewhat short-lived. Early on we averaged some 20kms a day over 8 or 9 hours, but in the searing heat (35C-40C) and desert-like conditions it was pretty brutal. It was a struggle to stay hydrated and we often arrived at camp totally exhausted. “Anyone for fried brain?” asked Jamie, our leader, after one hideously hot day. This was trekking at the extreme! Mercifully, we had the forethought to buy some umbrellas in Skardu, and whilst we may have looked a little silly they at least provided some vestige of shelter from the sun. On occasion we braved the raging Braldu river and managed to scoop some water over our heads, but it was quite an unnerving exercise.
As we slowly made our way up onto the giant Baltoro Glacier so we had shorter days, the heat relented, and a gentle breeze even cooled the air. And with every step the views became evermore spectacular. On our left were the Trango Towers, their sheer granite spires soaring skywards for over 6000m, and on our right the fearsome peak of Masherbrum. Eventually, after nearly a week of hard trekking, we arrived at Concordia, that great confluence of glaciers and mountains, but alas saw little of our surroundings. Ominous black clouds now loomed large in the sky, and by nightfall heavy rain had arrived with a vengeance.
The next 48hrs were cold, wet, and thoroughly miserable. We mostly hid in the mess tent, periodically peering out in the forlorn hope that the weather might miraculously be about to clear. It didn’t. And people’s spirits were beginning to wane. We rallied briefly when Ashraf, our cook, suddenly produced a cake in celebration of Catherine’s birthday. It tasted fantastic and was a welcome distraction from the rain lashing down outside. Then WOW! We finally awoke to a brighter day – no rain – and as the clouds began to clear so the spectacular panorama of Concordia opened up before us: the iconic Mitre Peak and the stupendous ‘Shining Wall’ of Gasherbrum IV; the imposing massive of Broad Peak, another of the great 8000m mountains, so named because of its mile long summit ridge; and there, at last, the mighty K2 – massive, monumental, and utterly magnificent. Be in no doubt that this, the second highest mountain on earth, is the mountain of mountains. Then late that night, amidst a crystal clear sky sparkling with millions of stars and Venus shining bright, came a truly wonderous sight to behold; the awesome majesty of K2, bathed in the ethereal light of the full-moon rising over Concordia. A moment of breathtaking beauty, and one that will stay with me forever.
