Hirotaka Takeuchi & Veikka Gustafsson on the summit of Gasherbrum II
“Everyone who saved my life and members of the last year’s team led me to the summit of G2, I really appreciate it.
When I reached the summit there was no joy or a word, I just stood in silence to recall the memory of every one who help me and the member who died last year. Continuing climbing is the only way to express my gratitude to them. I would like to say thank you to everyone.”
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On 8th July 2008 Hirotaka Takeuchi – the Japanese climber rescued from the huge avalanche – finally laid his ghosts to rest and successfully reached the summit of Gasherbrum II.
Given his own near death experience, the loss of two of his team-mates in the avalanche, and the fact that his spine is now reinforced with a titanium shaft, it is a truly miraculous recovery and an awesome achievement. Hiro has now climbed 10 of the world’s 14 highest mountains over 8000m – and is one very lucky guy.
Alas, triumph and tragedy often come hand in hand on the world’s highest mountains. The rewards are great, but the risks are high – sometimes too high. In a bizarre twist of fate the story has now come full circle, and I’m very sad to say that Jehan Baig – one of our High Altitude Porters (HAPs) on G2 last year – was one of the 11 climbers that perished on K2 this August. (Full story)
It is a cruel irony indeed that Jehan was the first to reach Hirotaka that day and undoubtedly saved his life by digging him out from the avalanche. Jehan was also attempting to reach another climber, stranded above him, when he fell and lost his own life on K2.
Merhban Shah & Jehan Baig
